When I lived in the Twin Cities, an occasional outing for me was Tavern on Grand, a somewhat divey tavern on St Paul’s Grand Avenue that was well known for the giant “Famous for Walleye” sign and a big neon walleye outline. I didn’t go there often (I’ve got a mild seafood allergy, although I’m quite tolerant to walleye), but it was always enjoyable, and the walleye was indeed quite good (they sold enough of it that they were probably one of the larger sellers of it). But after a run of almost 35 years, Tavern on Grand closed in the spring of 2024. After some renovation, the location re-opened as Russell’s, named after the building owner, Todd Russell. A local commercial real estate developer, he didn’t want to see the great restaurant space disappear, so he ended up opening the place himself. And, being one of my periodic trips to the University of Minnesota, I met up with my former PhD advisor and his wife for dinner.
Walking into Russell’s, it’s immediately obvious that this is a different sort of place. Tavern on Grand had what I’ll call a “North Woods Cottagecore” atmosphere, invoking the idea that you were in someone’s fishing cabin up north eating the day’s catch. Russell’s has gone upscale, with the new ambiance being more “high end” lounge, with nicely appointed seats around nicely-finished wood tables. A different ambiance, but actually a pleasant one.
And that goes for the basic menu as well. Russell’s is primarily an “upscale American bar food” restaurant: steaks, elaborate salads, sandwiches, burgers, and a handful of rotating seasonal entrées. And almost always at least one walleye item, as a nod to the place’s previous incarnation. As we looked over the menu, we nibbled on an appetizer of their house fries. Labeled as “Cacio e Pepe Fries”, that’s essentially what these were, very nicely prepared thin shoestring fries, served up with a bold rosemary oil, garlic, pecorino romano, and more than a bit of fresh-cracked black pepper. These were surprisingly tasty, and a great little start to the meal. If I was looking for a snack in the area, having some of this with a nice Summit beer would be just the ticket.
When it came to the main course, while I was tempted by the Crocus Hill burger made from short rib and brisket, I ended up going with the Ritzy Walleye, primarily since we don’t get walleye in the Northeast. Served with a mustard cream sauce and a citrus salad. A nod to the previous Tavern of Grand’s walleye offering, this was a very nicely prepared walleye: nice and flaky, still moist, and having the nice, rich flavor of pike. Definitely a great dish, and the citrus salad was a nice balance to the mustard cream sauce of the walleye. I’d definitely get this again.
For dessert, Russell’s had my kryptonite; I almost always feel compelled to order crème brûlée when it’s on the menu, and the version at Russell’s didn’t disappoint.
A classic crème brûlée, served up with a toasted coriander shortbread, berry sauce, and Chantilly cream. The crème brûlée was spot-on perfect, the coriander shortbread adding a nice spicy note, and the berry sauce and cream lightening it up. Another winner.
My hosts opted for a different dessert, splitting the bread pudding. A brioche bread pudding with homemade salted caramel sauce and housemade vanilla bean ice cream. Pleasant little dessert doing a nice dance between “sweet” and “salty”.
So, I rather enjoyed Russell’s. It’s a great location, and should be a good addition to the east end of Grand Avenue. While it’s a distinct change from Tavern on Grand (which will indeed remain missed), it’s a great spot in its own right, and they even still keep walleye on the menu.
